Bali

8-99

Trip Report

 


After twelve relaxing days at Wakatobi Dive Resort, we took a short flight from Ujung Pandang to Denpasar. I love the name Denpasar, though we never really got to see that city, apart from a quick drive-by on the way to the airport for our return flight.

Arriving in Bali after dark, we were picked up by a driver hired by our hotel and taken to Sanur Beach. Since it was dark, we were able to postpone our disappointment at the actual beach until morning. Our room -- suite, actually -- was quite nice, except for the mosquitoes, and the beach was a short walk away. We'd been warned about the beach vendors plying Kuta, and I'm glad we avoided that town, because the beach vendors at Sanur were plenty bad enough. The beach there would have been good for surfing, if I'd been a surfer. As it was, we were able to watch the surfers way offshore, and walk along the paved pathway that linked the beachfront hotels and restaurants. As for sunning, the sand itself wasn't very appealing.

We only stayed two nights in Sanur, and the day of our departure hired the driver from our airport trip, Martin, to take us on an all-day drive and tour to Pemuteran on the northern coast. I know it sounds extravagant to hire a driver for a private tour, but at roughly $35 we thought it a bargain! Besides, I wouldn't have driven that road in a rental car for any amount of money! We drove past rice terraces and more rice terraces. Past fields with water buffalo and naive scarecrows. Through the woodcarvers village, the silversmiths village, the toys and trinkets village (no, I just made that one up, but you get the picture) with several stops along the way for shopping.

We arrived in late afternoon, with just enough time for a walk on the black sand beach and to wiggle our toes in the gentle surf. Our room was the closest to the beach, surrounded by a lush, tropical garden. Waiters from the restaurant delivered fruit smoothies to our door, and the local masseuse showed up to rub us both down in our rooms. Hot water was the only amenity we didn't have in our $40-a-night room -- but the garden-setting shower made up for it. The next day we dove at Menjangen Island (translated: Deer Island) but didn't see any deer. We did see lots of other tourists, mostly snorkeling. I felt sorry for them, as the shallow corals are mostly dead, casualties of years-ago bombing and recent coral bleaching. Down below 50 feet, however, there was lots of life. Docile lionfish, cruising reef sharks, and, though we didn't see it, we heard there was a manta ray in the vicinity also. We spent the following day relaxing on the beach and didn't feel like we missed a thing. Meals at our resort were pretty good, but the meals next door were fabulous. I splurged on a glass of imported wine, which just about doubled our dinner bill (no kidding!) and we walked back to pack up for our next adventure: Ubud.

On the way to Ubud we passed through Lovina Beach and I felt we'd definitely chosen the best beach around by staying at Pemuteran. We also went past Gyung Batur, the second-highest mountain on the island (and second-holiest). We were treated to a spectacle of smoke from the latent volcano within, but only saw the tail end of the plume. "Don't worry," Martin told us, "it will erupt again in about 20 or 30 minutes." Amazingly, it did! Meanwhile, local tour guides tried to interest us in climbing to the top of the mountain. I don't think so.

We stopped at Gunung Kawi, which, if not the most beautiful spot on the island surely must be a close second. A temple with ancient tombs built into the solid rock, it had everything: rice terraces, a river running through it, and even a movie crew! We took a pleasant walk among the rice fields along a trail above the river (but don't tell the customs agents we walked among the fields!)

Ubud was wonderful. Wonderful restaurants (Casa Luna and thier sister restaurant in Campuhan are very highly recommended. We really didn't eat anywhere else since we didn't have to!) wonderful dance shows and wonderful shopping. We only had three days there but are already planning our return trip. The atmosphere is artistic, the vendors are friendly, and the scenery around the place is spectacular. By this time, of course, we were used to hot weather, but the heat was dissapated some in Ubud due to its elevation.

All too soon it was time for the long journey home. Denpasar to Singapore to Taipei to LA to Seattle. How soon can we go back?

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